Serves 4 to 6

Cool weather markets can count on a steady supply of chard and cilantro, which get together in this pretty soup. Diana Kennedy is responsible for the noodle nests I never would have come up with them myself but they're a great addition, giving texture and substance to a light soup. Consider using them in place of dumplings and croutons in other brothy soups.

The Noodle Nests

Ingredients

• 2 eggs, separated
• 3 ounces (1 ¾ cups) fine egg noodles (fideos)
• 1/3 cup grated Monterey Jack cheese
• 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
• salt
• peanut oil for frying

Procedure

1. Beat the egg whites until they hold firm peaks, then stir in the yolks, noodles, cheese, and cilantro. Season with a few pinches salt, then really work the mixture with your hands or a wooden spoon so that it's more or less homogeneous.
2. Heat enough oil in a medium skillet to float the noodles, at least 1/3-inch deep. When it's hot, drop the batter into the oil, dividing it into four or six portions by eye. Fry until golden, then turn and fry the second side, about two minutes in all. Set aside on paper towels to drain.

The Soup

Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 2 bunches scallions, including an inch or two of the greens, finely chopped
• 1 celery stalk, diced
• 1 cup finely chopped cilantro stems and leaves, packed
• salt and pepper
• leaves from 1 bunch green chard or Rainbow chard, about 6 cups, packed
• 6 cups water, vegetable stock, or chicken stock

Procedure

1. Warm the oil in a soup pot. Add the scallions and celery and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. After a few minutes, add the cilantro and 1/2-cup water so that the vegetables stew rather than fry. Add the chard leaves, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt, then cover and cook until the chard has wilted down. Add the water or stock.
2. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and add the noodle nests to the pot. Simmer until the chard is tender, about 10 minutes. Taste for salt and season with pepper. Ladle the soup into soup plates, include a noodle nest in each bowl, and serve garnished with a sprig of cilantro.