Italians loyally support their local businesses with pride. The Enoteca De Candia has been in operation in the Apulian city of Bari for seventy-five years. During World War II, it doubled as a bomb shelter. Despite its long history, the owners have never gotten around to adding a full kitchen. This did not stop Alessandra De Candia from generously sending me many traditional Apulian recipes. These pork-and-cheese meatballs were among them. They may be served hot as a small plate, all golden and crunchy, without a sauce. Or they may be incorporated in a ragù to dress pasta or lasagna. I particularly like them in a tomato sauce with greens. Accompany with polenta or olive oil mashed potatoes.

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 1 pound ground meat, part veal and part pork or all pork
• 1 cup fresh bread crumbs, soaked in broth, milk or water, then squeezed dry 2/3 cup grated pecorino cheese
• 6 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 or 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 or 2 eggs, lightly beaten
• Salt and fresh ground black pepper
• Olive oil for frying

Optional Greens

• 2 pounds spinach or Swiss chard, large stems removed
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1½ cups chopped onion
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 cup tomato sauce
• 1 cup meat stock
• 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
• Salt and freshly ground pepper

Procedure

1. To make the meatballs, combine the meat, bread crumbs, cheese parsley and garlic in a bowl. Mix in 1 egg. If the mixture seems dry, add the second egg. Season with the salt and pepper. Fry a nugget of the mixture to test the seasoning. When you are happy with the flavors, form the mixture into walnut-sized balls.
2. Pour olive oil to the depth of ¼ inch into a large sauté pan and place over high heat. When the oil is hot, add the meatballs and fry, turning as necessary, until golden on the outside. If you are serving them plain, continue frying them until cooked though, about 10 minutes, then turn out onto a plate. If you are combining them with the greens, remove from the heat.
3. If serving with greens, rinse the greens well, then place in a large sauté pan with only the rinsing water clinging to the leaves. Place over medium heat and cook 3 to 5 minutes, turning as needed until wilted. Transfer to a colander and drain well, pressing with the back of a spoon. Chop coarsely, squeeze dry and set aside.
4. Warm the olive oil in the a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the tomato sauce, stock and lemon zest and bring to a simmer. Add the browned meatballs and simmer for several minutes until cooked through. Add the cooked greens and simmer for a minute or two longer until heated through. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then serve hot or warm.

Article and recipe from Enoteca: Simple, Delicious Recipes in the Italian Wine Bar Tradition by Joyce Goldstein. Published by Chronicle Books.