Has the never-ending quest for good health gone too far? McLagan’s informed look at this most maligned ingredient raises some very interesting questions.

A crucial part of our diets, fat not only provides health benefits but pure pleasure as well. Few ingredients can carry flavor the way fat does. Her mixture of straight science, cultural anthropology and culinary curiosity is intoxicating, making this an indispensable addition to any chef’s library.

Breaking the topic down into categories like butter, pork, poultry, beef and lamb, McLagan chooses recipes that showcase the role of fat in imparting and carrying flavor. Versatile butter adds richness to pastry dough and a sweet nuttiness to brown butter ice cream, thickens classic sauces and can be used to gently poach scallops. A classic blt gets a jolt of flavor from bacon-fat mayonnaise, and sliced Yukon Gold potatoes cooked in duck fat are sinfully divine.

All the recipes emphasize flavor over total fat indulgence, but with a strong defense of fat’s strong suits if used wisely.

For this book, ‘Autographed’ refers to a signed bookplate. Also available in all stores.