This simple chow mein dish is most commonly served at dim sum restaurants, where the noodles are fried on the spot in the traveling hot trolley. At home, this is a breakfast staple, made from scant pantry ingredients. I adore the addition of bean sprouts—I have vivid memories of my mum sitting in her cavernous armchair, diligently tailing each sprout (a step I usually skip because I lack her dedication). My mum also adds garlic chives, so when they are in season, throw in a handful for a distinct aromatic flavor. The dark soy sauce adds the signature caramel color to the noodles—if you don’t have any, just use regular soy sauce or kecap manis. I’ve added a fried egg to amplify the breakfast feeling, but you could also serve it with your favorite marinated egg (see page 33) or go without.

Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the noodles and stir to loosen them up. Cook according to the packet instructions until just tender, about 2–4 minutes, then rinse under cold running water until cold. Drain and set aside.

For the sauce, mix together all the ingredients with 3 tablespoons of water in a small bowl.

Heat a wok or frying pan over high heat. When hot, add a drizzle of oil, then crack in one egg. Reduce the heat to medium and fry the egg until the edges are frizzled, the white is set and the yolk is cooked to your liking. Season with a pinch of sea salt. Remove and repeat with the remaining eggs.

Place the wok or pan back over the heat and, when hot, add a drizzle of oil, along with the noodles. Fry for 1–2 minutes, then add the bean sprouts and the sauce. Toss well to coat the noodles thoroughly, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat, season with white pepper and toss to combine.

To serve, top with fried eggs, scallions and sesame seeds.

To Asia, With Love by Hetty McKinnon, copyright © 2021. Published by Prestel Publishing. Photography: Hetty McKinnon.