To steam crab: To a lobster pot, large stockpot, or pasta pot add about 2 inches of water, yellow onion, wine, bay leaves, and thyme. Set a steaming rack or pasta insert inside the pot and bring water to a rolling boil over high hear.

Place live crabs in the pot’s steaming basket. Cover the pot and begin timing. Halfway through the cooking time, remove the lid and move the crabs around to ensure even cooking. The crab will be cooked when the legs turn bright, rosy red. Begin checking at 15 minutes, could take as long as 20 minutes. Remove from the pot and plung into an ice bath if you prefer the meat chilled, or place on platters if you want to enjoy them warm.

To prepare the butter: To a medium saucepan set over medium heat add butter, shallot, bay leaf, and thyme. Cook, stirring occasionally until butter is melted, skim and discard foam. Remove from heat, discard bay leaf, and divide between 4 small ramekins.

To serve: Each person gets their own crab, a bowl for the shells, a set of crackers, and the butter and lemon wedge on the side. Get ready for a messy, delicious time.