As the former proprietor of a popular breakfast and lunch spot in California’s Napa Valley, Sally Gordon has made thousands of omelets. She has closed the restaurant, sadly, but fortunately she has not lost her omelet technique. Her secret is whisking the eggs furiously until they produce a frothy foam, a step that yields an especially light result.
Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a small skillet over moderately
low heat. Add the leeks, season with salt and pepper,
and stir to coat with the butter. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally,
until the leeks are tender but not meltingly soft, about
10 minutes.
In a small bowl, mash the goat cheese with the chervil until
blended.
Crack the eggs into a bowl and add the chives, parsley, and
water. Beat vigorously with a whisk until the eggs are light
and very foamy.
Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a 10-inch nonstick
skillet over moderately high heat. When the butter
begins to sizzle and foam, add the eggs and spread them in an
even layer with a heatproof rubber spatula. Let the eggs set for a
few seconds, then use the spatula to push the firmer cooked egg
at the edges toward the center of the skillet so that the uncooked
portion flows onto the bare pan bottom. With the spatula, gently
pat the eggs into an even layer.
When the eggs have almost completely set but are still a little
moist on the surface, dollop the goat cheese on one-half.
Spoon the leeks over the goat cheese. Fold the other half of the
omelet over the filling and slide the omelet onto a warm plate.
Top with a little parsley and serve immediately.
