Parmesan-herb Popovers

Popovers are culinary sleight of hand. Their simple ingredients and mixing method belie the great heights to which they rise during baking, puffing up like crispy brown balloons. All of the ingredients may be measured in advance, but do not combine them until you are ready to bake the popovers. A popover pan is designed to optimize that rise, with tall narrow cups that force the batter upward. You can bake popovers in a regular muffin pan although they don’t rise as high and they develop a rounded depression at the bottom that, when turned upside down, is the perfect spot for some gravy. Popovers do not hold or store well, so plan on enjoying them when they are fresh from the oven. If they have cooled, reheat them briefly in a 350°F oven for 5 to 10 minutes, until warm.

Preheat the oven to 450°F and position a rack in the center. Once the oven is fully heated, heat the popover pan in the oven for 7 minutes. In the medium bowl, whisk together the milk, eggs, flour and salt until well blended. Add the Parmesan cheese and thyme and blend well.

Use a spatula to scrape the batter into a measuring cup. Remove the pan from the oven and close the oven door. Drop one piece of butter into each hole of the popover pan. Divide the batter evenly among the prepared cups.

Return the pan to the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Turn the oven down to 400°F and continue to bake for 10 minutes longer, until the popovers are puffed and deep golden brown. Cool the pan on a rack for a couple of minutes. Remove popovers from the pan with a spoon or small offset spatula and serve hot.

Recipes by Cindy Mushet, Photography by Maren Caruso