Baking tomatoes slowly in a low oven caramelizes their sugars and concentrates their sweetness. They remain moist—not chewy, like sun-dried tomatoes—but with their flavor intensified. Strew them with grated feta while they are warm and serve them with lamb chops, roast chicken, or a bulgur pilaf. Andrew Brait, who oversees tomato production at California’s Full Belly Farm, loves Brandywine and Cherokee Purple heirloom varieties and the hybrid Early Girl. You can also use Roma-type tomatoes, such as San Marzano. Leftover roasted tomatoes are sublime on a sandwich. The warm, feta-topped roasted tomatoes are good chopped and tossed with pasta, too.
Preheat the oven to 300°F. Core the tomatoes, then cut them
in half horizontally. Put the 8 halves, cut side up, in a baking
dish just large enough to hold them. Sprinkle generously with
salt. Combine the olive oil, oregano (crumbling the herb between
your fingers as you add it), and garlic, then spoon the mixture
over the tomatoes, dividing it evenly.
Bake the tomatoes, basting every half hour or so, until
they are very soft and just beginning to caramelize, about
3 hours.
Using an offset spatula, transfer the tomatoes to a serving
platter, spooning any pan juices over them. Grate the feta
over them. Serve warm, not hot.
